After the leg bevels were finished
with the sanding process, I marked them for the mortise locations.
The process was the exact same procedure we used when my grandson and I
made the legs for his TV stand. I used a 1/4 inch forstner bit to rough
drill the waste material from the marked areas on the drill press and then
chiseled out the rest of the waste to square up the cavities (sorry, no
photos of this step but you can check this step out in the project article
for my grandson's TV stand).
Well, well, well.................What
do you do if you need a place to put your flat screen TV which is in the
same room with your built-in library?
You make a stand to match it! That wasn't too hard to figure out
now was it? This project is the description along the way for the
construction of that TV stand.
first thing to do naturally, was to get a bill of material list together.
I used the TV stand plans that I designed for my grandson's
TV stand as a starting point and modified the drawings to accommodate
the new overall width, face frame style and openings in the new cabinet.
As you can see here on the right, after compiling the material list and
ordering the quarter sawn white oak stock, I picked it all up and unloaded
it onto some sawhorses in my front garage. I ordered the wood from
the same place I get most of my wood and that is L.R. Nisley & Sons
Hardwoods near Goshen, Indiana (an Amish operated business and an amazing
place to see by the way).
The first thing I set out to do after unloading
the lumber was to let it acclimate to my shop for a couple of days.
Then I took the boards that were to be used to make up the sides and jointed
the edges on my jointer. The next step that I always use (whenever
I can) is to use biscuits on the edges before gluing up the panels to help
in aligning the panels. You can see some of this operation in the
The next step was to cut
bevels on two sides at the the bottoms of each one of the legs. I
completed this task on the bandsaw and then clamped the legs together at
the workbench. I then used my Porter Cable belt sander to smooth
out the profile on all the legs. The photo on the left shows the
legs before clamping in the workbench front vice and prior to sanding them
with the belt sander.
After the legs were completed,
I cut the glued up end panels, the sub top panel and the bottom panel to
their final overall lengths. Then I cut biscuit slots in the panel
edges to join them and to make the outside perimeter of the main case .
I dry fitted the panels prior to the glueup to make sure they fit correctly.
This can be seen in the left photos below. The center panels were
then laid out on my infamous old door assembly bench to route the dados
that would hold the eventual center section shelving of the cabinet.
You can see in the right photo below how I set up the center panels to
do that task.
This photo shows the
after dry fitting the pieces
prior to the eventual glueup.
This photo shows how
I set up the
panels to cut the dados
for holding in
the eventual center section
The stand is designed to
have a storage compartment on both sides of the cabinet and to have doors
enclosing them. In the center section of the cabinet, there will
be two shelves that will hold components such as satellite control boxes,
my DVD player and other components and a drawer at the bottom center of
this section to hold my DVD's. I needed a way to make the center
section able to hold these components without showing all the ugly wiring
necessary to hook them up.
I decided to design the drawer
at the bottom to be shorter in depth than the entire full depth of the
cabinet. My thinking was that I could make cutouts at the rear and
center of the two shelves to allow the wires to be fed through. By
making the drawer shorter than the cabinet depth, this would allow me to
cut an access hole through the back panel and behind the drawer that would
not be seen due to the drawer being installed into the cabinet. The
wiring could then be fed up through the cutouts in the shelving and into
the components making a clean appearing setup.
To accomplish this, I took
the center shelf panels to my drill press and used a 1 1/8" forstner bit
to cut nice smooth rounded corners for the cutouts. You can see this
operation in the left photo below. After finishing the cutouts with
a saber saw and final sanding, I laid the shelves aside and assembled the
center vertical panels into the case. You can see what that looked
like after the glueup in the center photo below. The final step was
to slide in the finished horizontal shelves, gluing only the front 4 or
5 inches of the shelves edges to allow for their expansion and contraction.
You can see what the cutouts look like in the photo on the right (below)
after they were assembled into the main case.
corners being cut with forstner
bit on drill press.
case after vertical
panels were inserted and
View showing cutouts
at rear of center shelves.
this point, the basic case was completed and I moved on to cutting the
pieces for the face frame and end panel pieces. Each end panel has
a top and bottom cross piece that needed to have biscuit slots cut into
them at each end to attach them to the legs. They also needed to
have a 1/4" wide groove cut into them to accomodate the assembled end panels.
You can see the setup on my router table using a 1/4" slot cutter in the
photo here on the right.
After these pieces were assembled
and with the insert panels in place, I mounted and glued them into the
legs making the completed end panel assemblies.
The next step was to cut the
pieces for the face frame. I followed the design for the bottom piece
of the face frame by using the same design that I used when I made the
kitchen. This design allowed
for a long radiused piece at the bottom of the frame. In the photos
below, you can see the back side of the face frame prior to assembly onto
the main case showing the pocket screw joinery I used to assemble the frame.
this was all completed, I again dry fitted the pieces together to check
for fit prior to applying the finish. I wanted to make sure that
things worked out correctly because after applying the Orange TransTint®
wood dye, there would be no turning back if you miss something and had
to redo something. You can see what that looked like at this stage of the
game in the photo here on the left side of the page.
After checking and stamping my approval
of the dry fitting procedure, I laid all the components out in various
places around my shop and gave all the pieces the orange tint treatment.
After waiting for the dye to completely dry, I then lightly sanded all
of them to remove the slight raising of grain that this procedure created.
I then applied a coat of dark walnut gel stain to all the components.
The four photos below show some of the various different pieces after the
staining process. You can also see some of the biscuit slot cuts that I
used to fasten the face frame to the case. If you look closely you
can see how this orange tint makes the rays and flecks in the quarter sawn
oak "pop" as they say (make sure to double click the pictures to really
"see" this in detail).
When the drawer was completed,
I mounted the slides and placed the drawer into the cabinet. The
photos below show some different views after the final assembly of all
Cutting the dovetails.
Layout before assembly.
all the main cabinetry completed, I moved on to making the drawer for the
lower part of the cabinet. As I had stated earlier, the drawer was
designed to hold some of my DVD's and would help to make the overall appearace
of the cabinet a little more attractive, not to mention the function of
hiding the wiring to the components in the upper shelves.
The top photo on the left
shows how I cut the dovetails using my Porter Cable Model 4212 dovetail
jig. I love this jig! It sure makes dovetailing drawers a lot
easier for those of us who have not developed the skills to do it by hand.
You can see the cut drawers
laid out and ready to assemble in the center photo. Note that I also
routed a 1/4" X 1/4" groove in the bottom edges of these pieces to accept
the drawer bottom.
The lower photo shows the
completed drawer with a partition built in the center. I eventually
used full extension Knape & Vogt drawer slides to mount the drawer
into the cabinet. I also used the same styled handles that I used
on the lower cabinets of our built-in library.
When all had been said and done,
we moved the cabinet into our family room and placed it at the opposite
end from where the built-in library was located and placed our flat screen
TV on the top. Here is how it all looks folks!
We are extremely pleased with
the results and it matches the library exactly. If you want to make
any comments, you are entirely welcome.....Just e-mail me.
Cabinet after installing
the bottom drawer.
drawer slide detail.
Finished cabinet with
lower drawer closed.