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Her desk is made out of hard maple and had a style to it that she really liked. She wanted to keep this desk at all costs but wanted a printer stand to match the desk. That's where her Dad (Ol' Dave) comes into the picture. I told her that I would attempt to make her a printer cabinet to match the overall height, depth and appearance of her desk. The project described below is the build process description and photos of that cabinet project.
After I completed the drawings, I began to cut the panels required from 3/4" thick veneered maple plywood. I started by cutting the top which was to be surrounded by 3 inch wide solid maple to give it a nice looking edge. I then moved on to cutting the rest of the panels required. You can see a couple of these panels in the photo on the right as they lay on my table saw.
After the top panel was cut, I ripped some pieces of 3/4" thick hard maple down to 3" widths to make a solid edge completely around this top. Working from my drawings, I made 45° cuts on the ends and used my buscuit cutter to make the slots in both the edges of the tops and in the surrounding pieces. These pieces were then glued around the top panel and clamped into place. See the photos below:
When I removed the top from the clamps, I took it to my router table to route a 3/8" bevel around all the edges. This didn't exactly match the way her desk looked, but I thought it would keep the edges from chipping in the future. When all was said and done, and the cabinet was placed next to her desk, it was not so much of a difference in appearance as to detract from the oveall look (see photo at the end of this project article). The photo on the left side of the page shows this routing operation after setting the depth of the router bit.
After the top was completed, I moved on to cutting dados in the side panels to accomodate the panels that would separate the top drawer, shelf to hold print paper and the bottom (or floor) of the cabinet. In the two photos below, you can see on the left, the side panels being marked where the dados would ultimately be cut. And, in the right photo, the dados actually being cut to a 3/8" depth with the router.
The next step in this project was to dry fit the shelf and bottom panels into the side pieces to make sure that the pieces would all fit together nicely. You can see the base cabinet with the shelving and bottom in place after dry fitting them in the photo here on the right side of the page. After making sure they would fit, I removed the shelves and bottom and layed the sides on my fancy assembly table to make pockets for mounting the top to the cabinet. I completed this procedure then because it would have been impossible to do after the base cabinet was glued up. After making the pocket holes, I reassembled the case sides and bottom and glued them in place.
Upon completion of the main
cabinet case, I moved on to cutting the parts for the face frame and sanded
them to a final 220 grit finish. I used solid 3/4" thick hard maple
for making the face frame. The left photo below shows the parts after
they were cut to size and laying on my table saw. The center photo
shows how I clamped the pieces between two bench dogs at the end vice position
of my work bench. The right photo below shows a view of the pocket
screw operation to assemble the face frame after sanding the pieces.
This is my favorite method of joinery for face frames in working with this
type of cabinetry construction.
Just a note for those of you who have followed this project so far...... As I mentioned above, I also used pocket screws to fasten the top to the case and drilled those pocket holes in the top of the side panels prior to their final assembly and glue up. I don't have a photo showing the assembly process with the pocket screw holes in place and in the proper sequence in this project article, but I did take a photo showing the pockets being drilled in the top of those case panels in the photo on the left side of the page.
Wow! At this point, I'm getting tired! However, I proceeded next to mounting the face frame to the cabinet. I used my biscuit cutter to make slots into the back side of the face frame and into the front edges of the base cabinet, shelves and the bottom panel. (I again dry fitted the shelves into the cabinet to mark where the biscuit slots were to be cut and then removed the shelves to cut the slots).
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